Japanese-Style Boxing Range Control Techniques

Techniques and habits for measuring the distance between you and the opponent, getting in to where you can reach, and getting out to where they can't. 13 techniques

• One-two (jab, cross)
  12
  The one-two is the most basic combination: you throw a left jab and follow it right away with a right cross. The left sets the path to the opponent and the target, and the right drives through that same target with the rotation of your whole body. Many other combinations start from this shape, so lock it in early, just as you would your guard.
• Pawing jab (shown, not landed)
  1
  The pawing jab is a left jab whose only role is to be seen, not to land and do damage. Your extended fist draws the opponent's guard and attention to one side and opens a path for the power punch. At the same time, the length of your extended arm lets you check the distance between you and the opponent and decide where to throw your next move from.
• One-two with a deep step-in
  Step in12
  This is a move where you step in deeper than your usual step-in and then throw a one-two, done as a drill to lengthen your step-in. In a real exchange, it lets you get closer than the opponent expects, so your punches land more easily. But it assumes your stance holds even when you go deep, and that you can get back out after punching.
• One-two with a double-step entry
  Double step12
  The one-two with a double-step entry starts from long range and closes the distance a little at a time, splitting the step into two before you punch. Your feet stay on the floor longer than with one big jump in, so you're harder to hit on the way in. Your range from mitt work won't reach here, so this form assumes you go in a little deeper.
• One-two-hook (light, light, full)
  123
  The light, light, full one-two-hook is the one-two-hook with a clear contrast in power. The left jab and right cross are shallow, short setup punches that draw the opponent's guard together, and you step in big only on the left hook, the power punch. The idea is to set your position by the left hook, which has the shortest range of the three.
• One-two, then walk in
  12Close in
  One-two, then walk in is a move where you throw a one-two and then take another step forward to close the distance to the opponent. If you move away after landing, you give the opponent time to recover and the one-two goes to waste. Instead of a jumping step-in, close the distance as if you're walking, and keep a distance that leads into your next attack.
• One-two on the spot (finding your range)
  On the spot12
  The one-two on the spot is a one-two thrown without moving your feet forward, using only the rotation of your hips and shoulders. Throw it first at the start of a round and you find out clearly whether your fists reach the opponent from where you're standing. If they reach, keep attacking. If not, add a step in. It gives you the basis for that next decision.
• Right cross on the spot (freeze their feet)
  On the spot2
  This move is simply throwing a right cross from where you stand, without stepping in, and you're not trying to land it. Just seeing the right come is enough to stop the opponent's feet as they move forward, and that gives you more space to attack. Use it when you want to stop the momentum of an opponent coming forward and make time to move first.
• Double step
  Double step
  The double step is footwork where you close the distance to the opponent in two small steps instead of one big one. Your feet spend more time on the floor, so you can react if the opponent counters while you're closing in. Use it when you're wary of the opponent's counter, such as when closing the distance before going in with a one-two.
• Know your range
  Your range
  Your range is the distance at which your punches reach without a step. Know it accurately and you won't lunge in more than you need to, and you're less likely to lose your position as you finish punching. At the start of the round, throw a one-two on the spot to measure where it lands. If it doesn't reach, don't take a big step. Step in only half a step.
• Choose your punches by range
  Pick by range
  Every punch has a distance where it lands best. The basic split is straight punches from long to mid range, and hooks and uppercuts at close range. When you get close, the path of a straight punch gets jammed, so once the distance shrinks, switch to punches from the side and from below that let you use your body's twist.
• Step one fist deeper than on the mitts
  One fist
  The distance that feels just right on the mitts is a little short against a real person's face. Punch from there and your fist falls short and you only lose your posture. When you punch at a person, such as in sparring, step in one fist deeper than on the mitts. It's a way of shifting the sense of distance you learned on the mitts slightly forward for punching at people.
• Measure their range as well as yours
  Their range
  If you only watch whether your own punches reach when you measure distance, you leave yourself open to the opponent's punches. The distance where you can land is the distance where they can land too. The idea is to keep both your reach and theirs in mind at the same time as you move. It's the base for deciding when to move in and out and where to tighten your guard.